Friday, May 10, 2013
Thursday, May 9, 2013
Tuesday, April 23, 2013
George Greenough got tired of the crowds on the coast so he built himself several boats over the years to get to the islands to surf alone. He made a couple surf films that showed parts of this time before he bailed to Australia permanently.
Now, I'm not going to move to Australia but his story resonated with me for some reason. Crystal Voyager is a film he made in 1973, a time before leashes and the internet. Crossing the channel was a challenge back then. There was little forecasting and what forecasting there was was frequently wrong. You "poked your nose out" into the channel and sometimes came home with your tail between your legs and your lunch overboard. Once you were there, it was not comfortable. Wetsuits were primative and the cold unbearable. George makes it look easy. Fishing, surfing, filming, hell, just jumping into the water. That was always a shocker! But the end result was freedom and a huge sense of accomplishment. This segment is one of seven. Go to Youtube and see the rest. The footage of Talcott and Skunk Point is pretty good. George filmed a lot and showed it at partys. Some of it made his films. He is an interesting character in surfing and beyond. I will always wonder why he didn't stand up when he surfed waves. My guess is he liked to be closer to the source...